So I am on my flight right now to Alexandria Egypt and I figured that I better start keeping track of stuff that has happened over the past few weeks since my update last. Since finals have started I have just been going and going. I am finally finished though. 3 finals down and a 20pg paper. It wasn’t too bad, would have been better if I wouldn’t have been enjoying Istanbul and the Middle East in general J! So I went to Bulgaria to visit some family friends a few weekends ago, some of you knew about that and some didn’t. It really was a last minute decision I made because I felt like I just needed a weekend away before finals started into full swing. It was a really great time. It was so good to have a time to get that kind of fellowship with people. It was wonderful to get to meet new friends there and make great connections.
The trip mostly consisted of what was supposed to be a 6 hour bus ride to Kircili, Bulgaria, instead was somewhere around 8. This was due mainly to the fact that the bus driver decided it would be best to talk with everyone at customs at the boarder for an inane amount of time. On top of that, I did not have a working phone I could use in the region to contact the people who were picking me up to let them know that I was going to be late. However a really sweet Bulgarian woman used her phone and her intimate knowledge of her mother tongue to call my friends so that they would know where I was. She was quite sweet, also, most everyone on the bus wanted to know who I was, where I was from, where I was going and how I knew Turkish and German. Haha, what happens is that when you say hello, ask how someone is doing and tell a bit about yourself in the little that you’ve learned over the semester and then switch to German, a language they know better than Turkish, they believe that you are a linguist and you magically will be able to understand everything they say. At this point, German and Bulgarian come rocketing towards your inner ear at breakneck speeds I believe many native speakers would not understand. Anyway, it was a very interesting opportunity to meet a lot of people from a lot of different backgrounds. That, and I got to watch Turkish soap operas for 8 hours. After an amazing weekend, the trip back was much longer. It took about 10 hours. Overall it was a great trip and I am so thankful to V and B for having me!
So... after that there have not been so many scheduled events but mostly some random stuff which I will describe in small captions with lots of pics!
The only thing I will explain is that Bogazici University (the one I am studying at) has another campus on the Black Sea which you can take a bus to… well we decided that we would take a break from finals studying one day during finals weeks and take a trip there. It was quite awesome. For us it was perfect weather. The sun was bright and shining and the water was cool but not too cold. We brought a couple snacks and just had a great day at the beach. There were supposed to be more of us, but as usual there were quite a few people who ended up not showing up in time for the bus to leave, this would include the Italians and our Palestinian friend… they sort of have a history of doing that this semester :) they would rather “take a beer and make picnic at university” to quote a common one! So it ended up being Trevor, Zoe and I. We have kind of become a little group that has stuck together. Possibly because we have really been the only trustworthy people in our study group and we are the only ones who show up to our outings on time lol!
We had an American South night! Chicken fried steak, garlic mashed potatoes and brown gravy…mmmmmmmmmmmmmm it was great!
Egypt
First night – Air port and cab! – June 5th
So we get off the plane in the Egyptian airport in Alexandria the Bourg el Arab I believe it was called. So we get to the place where you can buy visas to get in the country and they only take US dollars… hmmm well that does me no good with my card, and a smattering of left over Turkish Lira and Bulgarian Lev… haha! Anyway the guy was really rude to us, didn’t offer us any other options either, simply told us “it’s not my problem.” We even tried to be really nice. Oh well. Anyway a Swedish family took pity on us and gave us some American cash so we could get the Visas, after we got out of customs we went to the ATM and paid them back in Egyptian pounds.
So, after that debacle we headed outside to catch a cab. At this point there is NO ONE at the airport. Our plane had gotten in at 1:30 am and everything was pretty shut down. However there was a guy standing around who we assumed to be a taxi driver and he assumed us to be needing a taxi. Well assumptions worked out for both of us this time because in the next minute we are sitting in a blue station wagon that isn’t wanting to start as we have promised the driver E£120. The exchange rate her is 6-1 E£ to US$ so it was pretty good for an hour ride into the city to our hotel. Well the car started after a minute or so and we were off… to Backstreet Boys!! I could hardly contain myself it was hilarious. BSB all the way to our hotel… which by the way, no one seemed to know its location. We finally arrived at a place that, if the outside was any indication, the inside would look nothing like we were told. Much to our surprise we were put up in a pretty quaint spot with a shower and a bed. Made for a pretty nice night of sleep.
Day one – Alexandria – June 6th
Day one – Alexandria – June 6th
Wow there is really so much to tell I don’t even know where to begin. So first off we are actually in a pretty nice hotel that overlooks the main bay in Alexandria. For those of you who do not know much about Egyptian geography like I didn’t, we’re at a port on the north coast of Egypt on the Mediterranean Sea. Well we thought we would stay for two days here but there isn’t a whole lot of touristy stuff to do here. From the reactions we keep getting, it does not seem like blonde people are super common here. I mean especially when we got away from city center, everyone wanted to talk to us. What was quite interesting was that what we initially interpreted as attempts to get money are just attempts to be friendly and talk to us. Most everybody has been really helpful here. I guess we were so used to being hassled in the bazaars and whatnot in Istanbul that we expected the same here. It may change as we move east across the country into increasingly touristy zones.
So anyway today we woke up to a breakfast brought to us by the hotel staff which was pretty good of pita bread cheese and boiled eggs. I’ll start off with lunch this day… it… was… AMAZING. We went to a fish joint that the Lonely Planet guide suggested. We had fish, calamari, prawn, clams, rice… it was all fresh and amazing. This is something you’d expect to pay a good amount for at Joe’s or Red Lobster. After being helped out by a great guy nicknamed ‘doctor’ who spoke English, we were given our meals, drinks on the house, and were both very satisfied. Cost us 70 together which at first we both looked at each other wide eyed only to remember we weren’t in Turkey anymore and that wasn’t outrageous for a meal haha.
Well I jumped the gun, lunch was so good I forgot about the library. The library was HUGE and quite incredible. No bags were allowed in so no photos of it… guess you’ll just have to go and check it out. Along with tons and tons of books there were also lots of art pieces as well as antique printing equipment. Anyone who enjoys the history channel at all would have loved this place. We went up towards the top and found a pace we could go outside and enjoy the view on the roof… don’t really know if we were allowed to be there or not but no one said anything to us so we assumed we were good. Now is the time where I should tell you about lunch but since that cat is out of the bag I’ll move on.
Next it was a taxi ride away to the Catacombs !! Should have probably been a 15 min ride except no one obeys any kind of traffic law at all and they don’t get that their impatience only makes things take longer. Oh well… so we get to the place and the security guys tell us there’s no cameras allowed yet again, no surprise there. Well we get down in there and it’s so. Freakin. Cool! We were bummed we couldn’t take pics until a guard comes down and asks us about cameras, he then snuck us up to get our cameras. So here’s the pics! Oh and for about the equivalent of $2.75 we tipped the guy who got us into a second set of catacombs that was actually restricted. All in all a pretty great day as by the time we got back it was after 5 and everything was closing.
So we’re off to dinner tonight and to find an internet café to book our hotel in Cairo. We’ll be checking out tomorrow morning and hopefully on a bus to Cairo for a few days.
Cairo – June 7th
Today we were supposed to get up early so we could get an early bus to Cairo, but we were absolutely wiped from yesterday. It must be this north African sun, and the fact that we’ve seen almost nothing but doom and gloom all semester in London… oh wait, that’s right we were in Istanbul weren’t we. Well you couldn’t tell as much from the weather that’s for sure. So we take a taxi to the bus station, the guy tries to rip us off, doesn’t work, and we finally get a bus ticket. What is supposed to be a 2 and a half hour trip to get us in around 1430 hits Cairo traffic and we don’t arrive and taxi to our hotel until about 1630 or 1700. Yes, I’m using military cuz I’m too lazy to put the dots in. We decided to go walk around the city a bit, here’s some of what we saw.
American University of Cairo(AUC) – a good amount of our friends in Istanbul were originally enrolled and here at this university but were evacuated during the revolution at the end of January
Tahrir Square – the city center of Cairo where Mubarak stepped down and the Egyptian people were freed from a dictatorship previously backed by the US exactly 4 months ago. It was a bit surreal to be here. To imagine that people lived here for 15 days that the whole city pretty much shut down as people protested the government.
Here you can see pictures of the burned party headquarters. This was shown on live footage on Al Jazeera for quite some time. They were afraid because right behind this building is the Egyptian National Museum containing thousands of years of Egyptian history. Luckily the fires were contained fairly well and the museum is completely unharmed.
I know the State Department said that people traveling in Egypt should stay away from political rallies but this was in the square and for the Palestinian people so we talked to some of the Egyptian students there and signed a poster giving our thoughts on the current situation. I couldn’t help myself, sorry US government. It was so nostalgic to be in this place of revolution and freedom and pride and not take part in the peaceful demonstration for other oppressed people.
We pretty much walked a huge circle around city center and then had dinner on a boat on the Nile. It was quite nice… the place did have a Chili’s and a Carino’s on the boat but we had dinner outside at the Mediterranean restaurant which I got a salad that was WAAAAAAY too much for me to eat. The whole walk back I felt like a gorged tick on a fat dog.
The walk back to our hostel was riddled with hasslers and boats playing loud music with people dancing on them. It was pretty neat but we had to get back because we are going to the pyramids tomorrow!
Cairo – Pyramids and Museum – June 8th
Today… amazing!!! Got up early to have a filling breakfast of bread, cheese, and jelly and tea. After that we got a taxi to Giza. I’m telling you, it’s amazing that 4,000 year old history is smack dab in the middle of a bustling metropolis. While once you get into the area you feel as though you are in a vast desert, you can look towards Cairo and still see most of the city. The MOMENT we walked into the area after buying tickets we were hassled non-stop almost. Everyone wanted to give you a ride on their camel, horse, donkey, or just show you around. We met this guy “Sammie” who said he’d give us a ride for 30 pounds, but would talk to us about the long ride later. We got some great pics and were talked into a longer ride for 120. Not too bad for a camel ride around the pyramids and Spynx and whatnot. First we went into the main pyramid. It was pretty neat, you were supposed to buy a ticket for 100 pounds and leave your cameras at the entrance. Well we have found out that bribery is key here so we didn’t buy a ticket. The guy came up to us to give our cameras back after letting us in for free, and we ended up giving him 40punds a piece. Not bad I say. He got 80 pounds in pocket, and we got a huge discount.
The camel ride was great except for the fact that at the end, they took us outside of the area and to shops that I imagine our guide gets paid a commission on whatever we buy. Needless to say we listened to the sales pitch of how they use the lotus flower for medicinal and fragrance uses and to how papyrus was made, but didn’t end up buying anything. After this Sammy tells us that the trip is over and we should pay. No big, except Sammy has now been possessed by the hassle demon himself and tells us 250 a piece… this is starting out from the original 30 we started at. Haha, it’s pretty laughable to hear him tell us he would not lie to us and that if we are happy it is worth the money. We instead settled on 150 a piece, which in the end isn’t the worst thing in the world. Got an awesome camel ride and some amazing pictures and good memories of arguing with Egyptians trying to rip you off for $25.
After this we just walked around ourselves. We tried to find an area on the pyramids we could climb up but we had no luck in this. THe tourist police were everywhere and we couldn’t really get alone by the pyramids. What we have realized though is that there are ‘no cameras’ and ‘no climbing’ so someone in charge can “break the rules” and let you get away with things so you can then give them baksheesh (a tip/bribe for their troubles). So after finding some guards to let us climb a bit and pose like complete idiot tourists, we found an area where we could slip away and explore some of the ruined surrounding city on our own with no one watching. Having watched “The Mummy” last night we were excited to find some interesting stuff there. Unfortunately we didn’t find any books of the dead or anything like that, however we did roam around the area quite a bit and find our way into some really great hieroglyphics chiseled into the old buildings.
This all took place before 2pm. We were pretty exhausted but we knew we wanted to go see the museum today still. So we decided to go. This time there really was no keeping our cameras, but that’s cool. Ultimately here’s what I can say about the museum: If I was an Egyptologist I would be really disappointed. While I think everything that was in there was incredible and I was in awe of over 4,000 years of culture and society that was contained in the two floors of this building I was upset at the hodgepodge way in which it was all thrown together. Most of the exhibits were not labeled or simply strewn around adjoining rooms on each floor. Again, let me express how SPECTACULAR all of the items themselves were. The Egyptian history contained there was magnificent and the breathtaking amount of culture that has survived so many thousand years is awe-inspiring. This being said, the museum as a whole leaves much to be desired if it is to do justice to the amazing opportunity it has been given in possession of such artifacts. Also… two best exhibits hands down: king tut room and animal mummy room. Not only were they REALLY cool just by their very nature, but they were also the most well labeled and laid out rooms in the entire museum. Overall it was a great almost 2 hours we spent in there.
HOME was next and it was about time. Jumping in the shower and laying down for a little was delicious. We decided we’d get some street food and some Egyptian beer and stay in the rest of the evening and recuperate before our day tomorrow.
Cairo- Last Day- June 8th
Today was a long but satisfying day as well and it was BRUTALLY HOT! In the sun it was just killer. Went through about another liter and a half walking around today. We went to the Coptic district of Cairo and checked out the big churches there and walked around the area for a bit. Form here we took the metro back to Tahrir and then a taxi to the Islamic district. This gave me the feeling o baing back in Istanubul. Large bazaar and tons of people hassling you for your business. We walked around for another hour or so and made our way back to the square. We tried to find the Hard Rock Café that was supposed to be here but we found out that it had been closed down during the revolution. Oh well, we tried at least. So we walked back to the square again to buy some of the memorabilia from the Jan 25th revolution. It is pretty cool to see how proud of this area and of what they did together. I am quite amazed at what they accomplished and I have so much respect for the Egyptian people.
This was also a bit of a reflection day for us. Time to think about our time here. First thing that comes to mind is how different Cairo is from Alexandria. There have been very few people here that have just wanted to talk to us for the sake of talking. About 5 min into what seems to be a great conversation with an interesting Egyptian you are told to follow them to their shop so they can give you their business card or asked to go buy something for them from the duty free. To be honest, it’s a bit emotionally and mentally taxing. I mean I would love to just talk to someone to get to know them and talk about their life here, but it seems that most of the time people just want to sell you something here. We have had a couple instance where we have had great interactions though and those have given us hope. For instance children are the main ones who give hope. So far there’s been almost no children we have met that have wanted anything other than to know our names and ask us how we are. They like to say our names and to tell us theirs and seem really proud of their English. They’re really cute and I just love that as far as we could tell, they had no ulterior motives. Also the people who had their windows rolled down in traffic by our taxi waving to us, asking where we were from, telling us they were excited to have us, welcoming us to Egypt and hoping we were liking it was really great. People who had nothing to gain from talking to us in a traffic jam, genuinely hoping we were being treated well and liking being in Egypt at a time when most tourists stray away from this place.
I would like to take this time to give you some travel advice if you every decide to come to Egypt to survive here. These things not only help you from getting hassled but they also make it fun for you instead of getting frustrated like we were the first few days. Here goes:
Play the repeat game
Speak in Turkish – this was probably my favorite. I would speak in Turkish to Matt and the hassler and ask him how he was and if he spoke Turkish. I pretended not to understand English much and eventually they gave up. Probably the most fun way to approach hassling.
Sell THEM something – another favorite which I developed today. This worked really well near the bazaars where everyone wants to tell you something. People came up to get us to eat at their restaurant and I subsequently offered to sell my water to them. After they got over their initial confusion they gave up and walked away.
Run away – this one I did at the pyramids. Guy tried to sell us a horse ride, I told Matt that the next person to hassle me, I was going to just run away… so I did. A fun variant to this one is yelling “stranger danger” as you run away.
Just a few tips for you. Off to dinner now. We leave tomorrow to go to the Sinai Mountain and the St. Catherine’s Monastery. The ride should get us in at night, we plan to go to bed early and get up about 3am so we can make the climb to see the sunrise on the mountain where Moses received the commandments. I'll talk to you guys again after that.
PS...
Tickets into the pyramid site: 160 EL
Camel ride and all baksheesh for pictures taken: 200EL
Looking back on your pics realizing they have made you look like a complete fool tourist: PRICELESS
PS...
Tickets into the pyramid site: 160 EL
Camel ride and all baksheesh for pictures taken: 200EL
Looking back on your pics realizing they have made you look like a complete fool tourist: PRICELESS
